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Anthropometry, the science of measuring the human body, can literally save lives. It underpins functional protective clothing, whether a police field uniform or a firefighter’s turnout gear. When it comes to protective clothing, however, getting the right size is about much more than comfort. It is also closely linked to the wearer’s ability to perform their duties safely and effectively, write Ada Traumann, Teele Peets, Margit Kuusk and Jane Kivistik from the Institute of Engineering and Circular Economy at TTK University of Applied Sciences.
The term “anthropometry” comes from Greek and means the measurement of the human body. Anthropometry helps us understand what body measurements and shapes garments need to be designed for. For example, if a firefighter’s trousers are too tight, they can restrict hip movement and alter muscle activity. This can lead to faster fatigue and even back pain [1].
An even more critical issue is thermal load, as clothing that is too tight prevents the body from dissipating heat. In extreme conditions, this can result in life-threatening heat stress. Incorrect sizing also affects the cost of equipment. If uniforms are ordered in the wrong sizes, they may end up sitting in storage because no suitable wearer can be found. Problems can also arise when incorrectly sized garments are nevertheless put into use – such clothing may restrict the wearer’s movement and fail to provide the necessary protection [2].
Although clothing size labels may initially appear straightforward, real-world experience tells a different story. The reason is that clothing sizing systems are based on standards that define systems for body measurements and the logic of size labelling, but do not prescribe a single mandatory size chart for finished garments. As a result, garments carrying the same size label can have different dimensions depending on the manufacturer.
Sizes intended for everyday consumers (S–L) do not provide sufficiently precise information about the wearer’s body measurements, such as waist and hip circumference, when it comes to professional protective clothing. Finding the right size is made even more difficult by the fact that protective clothing is rarely a standalone garment. Instead, it is part of a system designed for layering, from a base layer to the outer protective garment.
The way different layers fit together makes finding the right size even more challenging. Excess material and too much ease between the layers can restrict movement and cause significant discomfort and a feeling of constriction, particularly around the underarms and shoulders. For this reason, protective clothing should use numerical sizing that provides clear information about the wearer’s body measurements and the appropriate garment size [3].
Height and chest circumference are the main starting points when determining the correct size, but these measurements alone are not enough. People differ in body shape, proportions and dimensions, while garment fit is also affected by the garment’s construction, material, degree of fit and intended purpose. Developing protective clothing is a lengthy process in which garments need to be tested under real-world conditions and on wearers with different body types.
Uniforms can be made to an individual’s exact measurements, as is the case with bespoke formal parade uniforms. For everyday uniforms, however, such an approach is too time-consuming and expensive. Instead, garments are produced in standard sizes and can be adjusted to fit the wearer’s individual body shape where necessary.
From the measuring tape to the 3D scanner
The traditional measuring tape remains indispensable, but today it is complemented by new digital measurement technologies.
At the anthropometry laboratory of TTK University of Applied Sciences, measurements are taken using a Humanetics 3D body scanner, which creates an accurate “digital twin” of a person [4]. Our research shows that the deviation in measurements obtained with the body scanner is only 2.29% compared with measurements taken manually by an expert. This level of accuracy is considerably better than that of increasingly popular mobile applications, such as Abody.ai, which have a significantly higher error rate and are more sensitive to factors such as surrounding shadows and the wearer’s underwear [2].
However, measurements taken in a standing position are only the first step. In real life, people are constantly moving, and body dimensions change as the body moves. Clothing design therefore needs to take into account how the body changes during different movements and how this affects garment fit and performance. This is precisely what dynamic anthropometry studies.
The same principle applies to elite sports, where garments are designed to support specific movement patterns and reduce muscle fatigue. Protective clothing must likewise take the nature of the work and the wearer’s movements into account. For example, a regular T-shirt may expose the stomach or back when the wearer raises their arms, whereas protective clothing must maintain body coverage during such movements as well [1].
In addition to movement, protective clothing design must account for differences between wearers’ bodies. Historically, many types of protective clothing have been designed primarily around the male body, meaning that such models may not provide women with the necessary protection and comfort. In Estonia, several public authorities already use field uniforms designed specifically for women and men, although the need for separate cuts also depends on the intended purpose of the garment.For formal uniforms, it is important that the garment fits the body flawlessly, whereas for field uniforms, sufficient freedom of movement and comfort are the primary considerations.
NASA provides a striking example of why it is so important to account for different body types. In 2019, the first planned all-female spacewalk had to be changed because the International Space Station had only one medium-sized spacesuit upper-body component prepared for spacewalks [5]. The incident demonstrated that even when it comes to highly advanced protective clothing, the lack of a suitable size can become an obstacle to carrying out a task.
More than just the right size
At TTK University of Applied Sciences, knowledge of anthropometry goes beyond taking measurements. It is also applied to the development and testing of protective clothing. For example, in 2013 the university developed firefighter protective clothing for the Estonian Rescue Board, which remained in use for approximately ten years. Working together with firefighters, the university developed the garments’ cut and design and prepared the technical specification required for the public procurement process.
The university has also participated in the development of field uniforms for the Estonian Police and Border Guard Board, helping to develop technical solutions for the garments and coordinate their construction and design [3]. In developing field uniforms for the Estonian Prison Service, the university’s work included product development, the production of prototypes and preparation of the technical documentation required for public procurement.
The university is currently working closely with the Estonian Defence Forces to develop and test new solutions.
These projects demonstrate how anthropometric knowledge can be applied throughout the various stages of protective clothing development – from matching body measurements with garment cuts to testing garments and putting them into use. In this way, clothing can support people in their work instead of becoming an obstacle to it.
In spring 2027, TTK University of Applied Sciences will host the international protective clothing conference ECPC2027, bringing together researchers, manufacturers, testing specialists and end users from Europe and around the world. The conference will focus on the future of protective textiles, smart personal protective solutions, occupational performance and durability, and sustainable protective systems.
Sources:
1. Vilba, G. (2021). Development of an Anthropometric Method for Firefighter Protective Clothing. Thesis.
2. Traumann, A., Kivistik, J., Peets, T. (2021). Comparing and Analysing Contact and Non-Contact Methods of Anthropometric Data Collection. Research article.
3. Kuusk, M. (2017). Commissioned by the Estonian Police and Border Guard Board: Preparation of Technical Specifications for Clothing Equipment and Alignment of Production Files with the Technical Specification. Research paper.
4. Traumann, A., Peets, T., Kuusk, M. (2026). Integrating Advanced Anthropometry and Fabric Physics for a Digital Twin Framework in Garment Production. Abstract presented at the 3DBODY.TECH conference.
5. Schwartz, M. S. (2019). NASA Scraps First All-Female Spacewalk For Want Of A Medium-Size Spacesuit. https://www.npr.org/2019/03/26/706779637/nasa-scraps-first-all-female-spacewalk-for-want-of-a-medium-sized-spacesuit.
* Article was published on August 26, 2026 in Novaator.
